A Chat with Captain Joe
From stargazing to where to anchor, a Captain Shares Tips About Sailing the BVI
By Jane Bakewell
Captain Joe Standish is no “Newbie” to BVI waters. Hailing from the United States, and a former naval officer, he has been chartering in these seas for over 25-years. I found Joe an insightful, talking-reference-book, if you will, to the history, folklore, and reef status of the many snorkeling spots scattered around this pristine island chain. He seemed like the perfect spokesperson to give BVI Insider readers, some special tips and an overview of chartering in these waters.
Labeled the “Sailing Capital of the World,” the BVI enjoys a sea highway that has changed visibly over the years, with catamarans now dominating the waters. Monohulls once spotted picturesquely heeling into the wind on the horizon, are now primarily seen in popular racing and sailing regattas.
People’s comfort and requirements have changed, so the type of vessels in the yachting industry have adapted to meet those changes. Key benefits for choosing a catamaran include comfortable netting for lounging on the bow, stable sailing without pitching, and much more deck space for the passengers to spread out.
However, Joe laughed, early Spronk-designed Catamaran’s popular in Caribbean waters in the 70s and 80s, didn’t even have a proper “loo” – one’s “business” was a direct deposit with a saltwater bidet splash. Fortunately, those days have changed due to increased environmental and reef sustainability regulations. Now upgrades include modern marine toilets with holding tanks for pumping out at designated spots. Generators provide the comfort of air conditioning – a common feature even now on monohulls.
The charter industry, he explained, has begun to overshadow hotel occupancy, as many prefer the experience of waking up to a new island view from your cabin window every morning. A catamaran’s speed also offers the opportunity, on a standard seven-day charter, to hit most of the main islands in the BVI chain.
The anchorages have gotten much tighter over the years with many destinations managed by a private company, BoatyBall – now owning the majority of the floating mooring balls in the most popular bays. One accesses the service through a web-based reservation system in advance. This is not a week, or a few days in advance – reservations open at 7am each morning. The majority are reserved in the first half-hour. Check out time is by noon the following day. The reserved balls are colored orange, while First-Come-First-Serve (FCFS) are white. Manchineel Bay (Cooper Island) and Great Harbor (Jost Van Dyke) are two sights that fill up quickly.
The islands that have the seabed rights with establishments also have mooring balls available, with small boats coming by to collect the fee. Fortunately, most of the mooring balls are professionally installed and inspected annually, giving sailors the comfort even in stormy weather. “It’s a small overnight fee to pay for peace of mind,” Joe emphasized, “and it protects the environment.” No taking the chance that a tossed anchor might not hold and consequently tear up sea grass or coral and send your ship adrift.
There are also key areas, Capt. Joe explained, where one can see some of the best constellations for star gazing. The Southern Cross, a constellation popularized in a song by Jimmy Buffet, can only be seen in the southern atmosphere, and a good spot is from Norman Island. At nightfall, spreading four fingers off the horizon – with the pinky key on the horizon, counting four up, gives a view of a cross with the apex going east.
Anchored off Anegada, is another star grazer’s dream. At night, off the shore of this almost dark island with very little ambient light, one can see the constellations clearly. Joe recalls one young passenger of a family on charter, showed him a new app on his tablet that allowed him to scan the night sky and get instant information about what he was seeing. Technology has certainly proven to enhance a sailor’s experience on the high seas.
One of the reasons Capt. Joe loves extended charters is for the opportunity to tell people about the history and folklore of the islands in what he calls “Story Time”– a fun nightly game. Dead Chest, near Peter Island had true pirates, not Hollywood’s version with Johnny Dep. So did Spy Glass Hill and Treasure Point on Norman Island, where real treasure was found at The Caves in 1910. “I am able in a week-charter to fully share the fascinating stories about my backyard,” Joe explained. “I want people to embrace the local culture, and food – everything from gourmet cuisine at Coco Maya (Virgin Gorda) to local favorites like Pig Tail, or barbecue Jerk Pork at Trellis Bay Market (Beef Island).”
Aside from “Prime Time” his 88’ Cabin Cruiser, Capt. Joe is able to take out forty or more guests often cruise ship passengers, on his large catamaran for a day sail. “Even with that size group”, he explained, “I try and turn a day guest into a future week-long charter.” The BVI has so much to offer, that many, when getting “just a taste, are enticed enough to come back for more.
When Capt. Joe is out with his family for a day cruise, he often looks for an anchorage off the beaten sailor’s track, where he can be alone. On the south side of Norman Island, is Money Bay a quiet anchorage and Ginger Island, has a small cove also on the south side – both pristine sights that not many know about.
A captain with years sailing the BVI, with much love for and knowledge about these islands, is the best ambassador for Tourism and the reason why so many choose to return to this unique set of island gems again…and again.
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