Wonderful World, Beautiful People: Why I Love The BVI

Story & Photos by Nancy Read

There’s a reason why I fell in love with the British Virgin Islands 40 years ago, and why I continue to return, and why I yearn for them, when I’m not there. Actually, I guess there are many reasons…

I own a dismasted 35′ sailboat, which floats happily on the crystal clear, turquoise-colored waters, of Sopers Hole at West End, Tortola.  Although she cannot sail at present, she offers a comfortable and cozy accommodation for five days and four nights of quarantine, required by the BVI government for entry into the Territory, as well as a relatively inexpensive way to spend the month of February in the BVI.  

My daughter, Mya, and I had just arrived on a flight from San Juan, after having received a negative Covid test three days prior in Florida. The help I received from Tammi Davis of the Tourist Board, who helped us upload this important information on the BVI Gateway portal, was much appreciated. 

I was impressed by the newly erected facility at Beef Island Airport, used for Covid testing. It was quick and easy!  We were fitted with a bracelet to identify us as being in quarantine, and were given a tracking device. A taxi then delivered us to our various quarantine locations.  Masks were worn by all. 

At the time Mya and I arrived, there was a four day quarantine protocol. Now for the vaccinated, coming to the BVI is easier. Visitors still must get a pre-travel PCR test and fill out the Gateway application form on the internet, but a shorter quarantine period ends as soon as you receive the results of your Entry Covid Test – generally 1-2 days. You are then free to explore this wonderful world and its beautiful people.

Mya quarantined at Village Cay Hotel, where I met her father in 1981!  As a Belonger, who was born at Peebles Hospital, Road Town, thirty years ago, she was offered accommodation at a government certified hotel, at no expense. I was fine with staying on the sailboat. We had both provisioned with Bobby’s Supermarket, which delivered our order to our accommodations. I was looking forward to getting onboard and getting settled with a cold drink.

I dare say, the time flew by, and it was kind of nice to not have to go anywhere. It gave me the opportunity to appreciate the beautiful scenery, the beautiful people and the amazing sunsets of West End. I spent my days watching crabs crawl along the dock, and watched fish looking for morsels to eat.  Sargeant majors, beautiful parrot fish and others would come up to feed. Then there was the gull with the hanging wing, who would seek refuge on the dock, returning every morning for a rest. Life was simple and peaceful…

Too peaceful for some, especially for the yacht companies and restaurants. There were few tourists, yet the yachts were still maintained and the restaurants were open for business.

Every once in a while, released from quarantine, and like a caged animal let free, a large sailing yacht filled with holiday makers, would leave the harbor; a very excited group of people, ready to explore the BVI!  So nice to see!

Finally, it was Day 4. A taxi arrived to take me to my exit Covid test at the hospital. Again, the test was quick and easy. It was the wait until the next day for the results which seemed to take forever. Finally, the negative results appeared on our phones, along with a release, which we presented at the Police Station, West End. The bracelet was removed and the monitor was returned. Freedom!

It was good to be with my daughter. We took short walks together to our favorite beaches, enjoying the sights and smells of being somewhere different. We appreciated the calmness of The BVI, always in awe of the surrounding electric blue water, and the dramatic backdrop of the hillside. 

And then there were the chickens and roosters everywhere! They start their crowing by 5 in the morning, slowly waking up the hillsides, until you heard an echoing chorus of roosters by dawn.  I loved seeing Mama chicken with her brood in tow, be it at the beach or in Road Town…it’s just so sweet!

Renting a car, we ventured out and explored. Our first drive was to Smuggler’s Cove, where we sat at Nigel’s Beach Bar, and drank one of his famous rum punches; it made all the work to get here, worthwhile.  The sun, sand and salt air, and the new friends we made at the bar, also just out of quarantine, contributed to a perfect day. I felt the freedom of the BVI, but also felt the caution, as hand sanitizers and cleaners were everywhere. Once again, so few people on the beach. One yacht did come in to anchor. I believe Nigel said it was the first he’d seen all year! 

The next day included a stop in Road Town … not quite the quaint city center I remembered from years ago, but we had errands to run.  We rewarded ourselves later with a mojito (or two?) at Bambouchez.  Sandra was tending the waterfront bar, and she did not disappoint us. The spearmint flavored drink gave us the lift we deserved and satisfied our thirsts, and we were able to purchase some handmade pottery for friends back home in the shop out back.

We drove one day to Josiah’s Bay and Lambert Bay in order to enjoy some of Tortola’s East End beaches … such a privilege to experience the uniqueness of the different beaches in the BVI. We saw goats grazing on the sides of the road as we drove east, and even better…cows on the western end of the beach at Josiah’s!  I used to see that years ago at Brewer’s Bay and was glad to see it again.  But there were no people except us.

Soon it was Thursday night, and we were introduced to what became a Thursday night tradition … playing BINGO at Sebastian’s – a beachside hotel on Tortola’s northwest shore. We sat with a table of friends, enjoying the sunset, the waterfront views, and the wonderful atmosphere of everyone having fun under the star-filled sky.

One day, we headed out on the ferry from West End to Jost Van Dyke, located across the sparkling blue waters – a small island of grateful people, who were appreciative of our store purchases, and food and drink business. On Valentine’s Day, we had a special treat…lunch at Quito’s, Cane Garden Bay. After drinks outside with our long- time friend, Tracy, we went inside the beautifully decorated restaurant to enjoy lunch and a two-hour concert by Quito! What a privilege and what a delightful afternoon! Of course, we followed this by some time relaxing on the beach… again noting that there were few people, and no yachts in the anchorage.

Departing from Road Town early one morning we took the ferry to Anegada, a flat and lightly populated coral island north of Tortola. What a stunning sunrise, as we drove east on the shore road to catch the ferry. We had to planned to go with two couples we had met at Nigel’s Beach Bar and it was like a reunion on the ferry. New friends become old friends in the BVI! Along the way we picked up some workers at Port Purcell and delivered them to Peter Island Hotel. Then, we stopped briefly for folks traveling to see family or friends on Virgin Gorda, or to pick up others for the final leg to Anegada. I always wanted to say “Thank you,” to the local people for sharing this paradise with me and for allowing me to enjoy its beauty. 

We had arranged to meet Captain Sherwin, who met us at the dock and escorted us to his sleek, fast boat, “Boss Lady,” stocked with a cooler of cold drinks. We boarded, let go of the lines, and were off to see the flamingos! This colony of amazingly pink birds resides here all year round, and migrates within the area to change its feeding grounds and surroundings. Sherwin stayed well enough away from them, but when the chief flamingo decided it was time to fly…It was time to fly! And I was ready to film 70-100 birds, with four to five foot wingspans, fly in front of us to relocate nearby. It was an incredible sight which should be on everyone’s bucket list!

Sherwin followed this with a ride to a “Conch Island”, where local “conchers” have been discarding their empty shells for years. This has created a tunnel-like passage underwater for marine life and snorkelers alike. We put on our masks and snorkels and set off to see such beauty in the entertaining, and colorful fish below. Photos were taken both in and out of the water, and we set off for lunch.

At this point, Captain Sherwin transferred us from boat to car. He was a proud tour guide, and even showed us where he lived. We wound up on beautiful Loblolly Bay, at the Big Bamboo Restaurant. Diane’s staff took good care of us with food and drinks, and we enjoyed talking with Diane, who was again, so appreciative of our patronage. It hasn’t been easy for the people here with the lack of tourists.  We had wanted to have a lobster lunch that day, but the restauranteurs are hesitant to purchase such an expensive item, not sure they can sell it on. Sherwin sensed our disappointment and asked us if we would like to get some fresh lobster to take back with us on the ferry. We all said ”yes,” and then the excitement began! After a few phone calls, we arrived at a fishing dock and a man pulled out a trap with the biggest lobsters I had ever seen! We struck gold! We each selected a lobster. They were weighed and paid for, photos taken; then, they were boxed, ready for the ferry ride back to Tortola. 

The fisherman had demonstrated how to prepare the lobsters, but I just couldn’t do it. So, we decided to do the easiest thing … ask Omar! Now Omar, of Omar’s Fusion on Frenchman’s Cay, West End, has got to be one of the nicest people I know on Tortola; he volunteered to prepare them for us the following night. Well, his chefs presented a meal, complete with local rice and veggies, which was magazine cover perfect!  “A hundred dollar plate,” as Omar described it!  Unfortunately, it only lasted for a few meals, but the memories will live on … Thank you, Omar!

Time was slipping away, and we hadn’t been to the Willy T, which had been one of our goals on this trip. This fun place to eat and drink is a floating pirate ship in the Bight at Norman Island; my son, who had been born on Tortola, used to work there. 

Roan, the son of an old friend took us to the Willy T aboard his boat, where we were welcomed aboard by the ship’s staff, just like the old friends we are. Fish caught locally, fresh food prepared on board, drinks, good music, and clear waters are all the ingredients for a fun Sunday at the Willy T. But we had to be off the water by six o’clock, a government regulation to minimize the risk of Covid, and the boats started to disappear off in the distance, as we too, set off for the return to Tortola. 

With another day ahead of us, we decided to visit The Baths on Virgin Gorda, the BVI’s top natural attraction. We’ve been there many times over the years, but this time was different. We paid the fee to enter and began the descent down the haphazard path to the beach, not passing anyone.  When we reached the beach, we realized there was no one else there. Kind of nice, but a bit eerie, too. The beach bar and all but one of the shops was closed and I wondered how the local people are surviving during the pandemic. 

Still, we walked through the tunnels made by the granite boulders and, as always, I wondered at the beauty and power of it all. We ventured through the boulders on to Devil’s Bay, enjoying the calmness. In spite of the solitude, the views are still breathtaking, and although I hope that I will never see it as quiet as this again (in the hopes of life returning to “normal,” where people can travel freely again), I will admit, it was nice for the day.

After my daughter flew back to the States, I stayed for a couple of weeks on my own. I felt it necessary to stay a bit longer to accomplish my reason for being in the BVI this time…to heal. My 32-year- old son, had died in a boating accident in Soper’s Hole, two years ago. Staying on his boat, which I inherited after his death, brings me closer to him, and has made the BVI even more special to me. 

As I heal and come to terms with my future, I still enjoy and appreciate the unique beauty of the BVI. I can be amused by the fishing vessel which came alongside my boat with a goat tied to the aft port railing. That billy goat eyed me in my cockpit pleading with those big brown eyes for help … someone came down the dock, money exchanged, and the goat was led down the dock to a new pasture on Tortola. Before this, I had only ever seen this boat sell fish! 

Then, there are the colorful wild flowers that are growing all over the island, and the hillsides that are coming back alive after a devastating storm nearly four years ago.  There are varying forms of healing therapy all around to help me, between the people I meet, and the walks I take; the sea glass I find and the shells I lovingly choose on these fruitful shores; and the creations I make with these treasures, sitting in the cockpit on my boat in this beautiful place.

I had one more venture to town, to get my Covid test for departure. I had returned the rental car and decided to walk the almost ten miles to town. At Sea Cows Bay I noticed a donkey on the side of the road. Forty years ago, I recalled, a few men would ride donkeys for transportation. And I was pleased to see one again. As I rubbed her nose, ears, face, and mane, her family of three donkeys appeared, trotting over to the fence, asking for the same treatment.  I gladly obliged. I then pulled some lemon grass from my side of the fence; they seemed to enjoy the attention. That encounter made my day.

A gentleman from St Vincent offered me a ride along the way…’cuz that’s the way people are here … helpful, kind and caring. I appreciated the ride and enjoyed our conversation.

As I reflect upon those West End sunsets I witnessed from my cockpit, I’m reminded of the Jimmy Cliff song, one which will always remind me of the BVI. I hope you can get here sometime. It’s a “wonderful world”, with “beautiful people”.  I was so happy to be a part of it.