Old Time Fun at Carrot Bay Fiesta
The Carrot Bay Cultural Fiesta is one of my favorite BVI events. mancipation Festival. Hundreds of people from around the island gather for an event that is a homage to a simpler time; a remembrance of life in Carrot Bay – and much of the rest of the BVI – just 50 years or so ago.
I arrived at around 5, and it was already hard to find a parking space along the narrow waterfront road. I strolled past milling people eagerly greeting friends and family. There were booths selling saltfish and conch and salt fish patties, johnny cakes, home baked goods, mauby and local fruit drinks. I stopped several times along the way, chatting with friends and sampling some of the goods including a conch patty (it was amazing) and a dense and a moist piece of deep orange carrot cake (incredible!).
BVI Festival has long historic roots. It commemorates the reading of the Emancipation Proclamation at the Sunday Morning Well in Road Town on August 1, 1834. For over a century the first Monday in August was celebrated by churches and community organizations with church services, picnics and games. There were maypole dances and donkey and sack races and tug of war.
By the mid 20th century, these simple celebrations evolved into the two-week long Festival that we know today with nightly music, beauty pageants, parades and tramps. So, there is something fitting that Carrot Bay, which holds its Fiesta on the Friday after Festival, has gone old-school, celebrating Festival’s simpler roots with good old-fashioned food and drink and classic games.
Shortly after I arrived, a tug of war contest was being organized. First up were the married men against the singles. Initially, it took some persuading to get a quorum on both sides. But a couple of beefy looking guys eventually came forward. Being an Atlas, though, wasn’t a necessary qualification, and soon a variety of shapes and sizes took hold of the rope. Among those joining in was BVI governor, John Rankin, who seemed to be enjoying the festivities as much as everyone else. The idea was to have fun, rib your neighbor for not pulling hard enough, or for being pulled off his feet! There was lots of whooping and hollering, and after the winning side was announced, another group came forward to take their turn. Next, it was the ladies. A range of brightly dressed women stepped forward and more shouts and cheers egged the teams on. The crowd nudged and jostled to get a better look, melding in with the contestants, so it was sometimes hard to tell who was a contestant and who was an onlooker. I tried to get a photo – not easy with so many vying to get a better look.
When I arrived at the festival grounds, I had been disappointed to learn that I had missed the donkey races, one of the afternoon’s highlights and a crowd favorite. But then came the news. There was going to be rematch! Crowds lined either side of the Carrot Bay road, as the contestants paraded by on their mounts. There were three in all. Two older gents, who looked as if they had been born in a donkey saddle, and one younger guy with more enthusiasm than skill who trotted confidently after them to the starting line.
Donkeys are not horses. They have a mind of their own, but the old guys knew their “steeds” and steered them down the street like pros at a pace I wouldn’t have expected from a donkey. The younger rider didn’t fare as well. He was soon donkey-less and with a sheepish grin (or is that the wrong metaphor for a donkey rider) ran down the road after his mount as the crowd roared with laughter. After the donkey race, the music cranked up, and the fun continued into the night.
A celebration of community camaraderie, fun and old-time games, Carrot Bay Fiesta brings out the best in the BVI. I’m already looking forward to next year!
– Claudia Colli
