North Shore Shell Museum Celebrates BVI Heritage
by Nancy Read
Egbert Donovan, proud resident of Carrot Bay, in the British Virgin Islands celebrates the heritage of his people. A man born in Carrot Bay many years ago, he has preserved his culture through his life’s work at his museum and restaurant by composing and playing music, teaching and creating local, timeless crafts, and instructing the future generations “to hold up the culture of the island.”
I meet Egbert
I was looking forward to meeting this man, who had so many interests and talents. I set off for Carrot Bay from Soper’s Hole where I live aboard my boat. Ceta, a local friend, drove me as far as Apple Bay, but I wanted to walk the rest of the way. As I walked down Apple Bay’s sandy beach, I saw a lone surfer riding the swells. Along the way I enjoyed the beautiful flora, an abundance of butterflies and other fauna. The journey was a good hike. But the scenery and foliage along the shore and the sparkling waters looking out to Jost Van Dyke, and all her accompanying islands and cays, well rewarded my efforts.
I passed by the small graveyards with concrete vaults containing and commemorating the deceased of this community. I contemplated the longevity of these islanders…some having passed a 100th birthday! And that is exactly what I discover Egbert Donovan celebrates…the heritage of his people.
I eventually arrived at Egbert’s waterfront location, an open sided wooden structure perched on the water’s edge with dozens of beautiful conch shells lining its tables. Upon arrival and introducing myself to Egbert, he suggested we sit on the waterfront in his shop. With two stools, a microphone and a four stringed ukulele (which I notice later on has three strings), he performs a merengue song with its Latin beat. His leg and body movements and soulful words, display the joy of his music.
Conversation began, but he was soon inspired to sing another song, a self-composed piece – one to illustrate the strength of his culture, and “to teach the children what the older people used to do, to help yourself.” He proceeded with the song, which told of a child wanting to give up, ‘cuz “life is hard for me.” The mommy explains that life is hard for all of us, and to not give up.
Egbert Sings
This song illustrates Egbert Donovan’s point: people must stay and work to improve life here in the BVI; he is glad to see a trend in this direction. “All those sounds are what I write,” he told me.
Egbert then invited me to cross over the road. Now, one must understand that I’ve passed the waterfront Shell Museum location numerous times in its past 25-year history, and I never knew that the actual and original site is a two-story house located across the street!
A Tour of the Museum and Restaurant
What a surprise, as walkways, steps and walls, were all covered with colorful shells of all sizes and shapes; and hand painted signs offering words from islanders past and present. Of note were crafts made by local children whom Donovan has taught to perpetuate the spirit of the Islands and to appreciate the local crafts, sometimes providing funding for extra school programs.
I saw a rough painting of a boat called “Esperanza.” I know that means “hope” in Spanish and I asked Egbert about it, if he had ever had a boat with that name. “Yes,” he replied. “Hurricane smash it up.” But he was able to use it for years, to travel to the islands west of Jost Van Dyke, Tobago in particular, to go conch and shell hunting, fishing and to find artifacts from the latest storms. The result is this museum! Even items of years gone by, such as kerosene lamps, have been donated to the museum. When electricity came to Carrot Bay in the 70s, some gave their kerosene lights to Egbert, only to borrow them back again during power outages.
We passed through a bit of a salvage area, with found cups, saucers, bits of wood, things people find and bring to Egbert, who seems to be a collector of anything!
We then go up to the top floor of the building, to the restaurant which reopened the end of November, for the 2022 season. Menus and prices are posted, tables are set and ready to receive guests, and Edgar Donovan is ready to share his love of country and heritage.
His community will once again support this effort, as they welcome you to enjoy their music, foods and drinks, arts and crafts, and a life-long collection of what is important to this BVIslander.
So, when you next go through Carrot Bay take a moment and enjoy the smaller shops along the way, enjoy a cool drink, a look in the variety store, or a stop in the fish/bait store. Relax at the local restaurants and see what make Carrot Bay so special in these British Virgin Islands. And makes sure to stop at the North Shore Shell Museum.
Learn more about BVI activities, culture and people at the following links:
For additional museums and activities in The BVI go to:
The BVI Tourist Board website is also a good source of information on the British Virgin Islands:
You can also get additional information at
